A few days ago, we had the "distinct" pleasure of meeting with a therapist regarding culture shock in Granada. For the most part, she has simply become the butt of many a joke and provided us with little to no information that we didn't already know. However, her 4 stages of culture shock, while key to many of the jokes cited above, provide a good way to approach the discussion of the vast cultural differences that we have encountered since arriving. The stages are: honeymoon, anger, negotiations, and acceptance. Most of us have seemingly skipped over anger and are either still in the honeymoon or are negotiating the good with the bad. I'm quite happy wherever I am (I would say between negotiations and acceptance, go me), but am going to negotiate the differences so that you understand.
The first difference that was discussed was the lack of personal space in Espana. As a fan of hugs and snuggling, I greeted this disappearing act with open arms (pun initially unintended, but now I like it). But let me tell you, if you think New Yorkers are rude walking down the street then don't come to Espana, especially Andalucia. I have had old ladies push me off the sidewalk and professors standing mere inches away from my face. More importantly, its okay for me to nudge an old lady draped in a mink to get to class on time or to walk in front of a woman who is window shopping. The key is this--it is not rude here. Once you get it through your head that you are going to pushed and poked, caressed and kissed (two kisses every time you meet someone) it becomes easier to handle dodging umbrellas on the rainy walk to school this morning. Even at the discotecas, its easy to spot the Americans dancing in a nice big circle with plenty of room in the middle and the Spaniards who are back-to-back with them. As a girl, the only time I really feel that it is an issue is with Spanish men. It is hard to draw the line between what is the cultural norm and when he is being a creeper, but that too will come with time. In all honesty, it isn't that difficult since I've been walking in NYC all of my life, but it should be interesting when I come home and cut people off and don't apologize.
That leads in very nicely to the please's and thank you's, or lack there of. If I ask for "the check, please," I'm being too nice. If I nudge shoulders with someone on the streets not only will there be no apology, there is no reaction, period. To get the attention of a waiter, stare at them. Don't thank them as you leave the restaurant, just hand them the bill say it's all good and goodbye. At home, my manners are adequate; here, I am the equivalent of a nun. It is hard to get used to not saying please and thank you, but again I think the difficulty will be remembering to say it once I return to the US. Also, a fun fact for those that have studied the Spanish language at all. Granaderos, and most of Andalucia, do not use the el/ella/usted/ellos/ellas/ustedes forms unless you are asking an obviously older person for directions on the street (I exaggerate only a little). The informal tu form is what is used, as well as the extremely scary and hard to use vosotros form. It takes a little getting used to, but I have seen no need since I've been here to use any formal 3rd person conjugation.
The final biggie I think would be the schedule. The best way to help you understand is to walk you through my day yesterday as it was my first real Spanish night.
7:30am wake-up, shower, breakfast (2 pieces of toast, tea, clementine)
8:30am walk to class
9:00 orientation class
10:00am orientation language class
12:30pm media manana coffee and toast
2:15pm walk home
2:45pm comida (lunch) (seafood stew with calamari, baby clams, carrots, potatoes and green salad with feta cheese)
3:30pm siesta!
4:30pm back to school
5:00pm language placement exam
7:00om cocktail party
8:30pm churros! (think fried dough dipped in melted hershey's bar)
10:00pm leave the house to go to the bars
12:00am go to the discoteca
3:30am leave the discoteca
4:30am sleep!
(and for those that are interested I had to wake up today at 8:30am--joy.)
As you can see, the days are very long and the eating schedule is extremely different. Comida is the most important (and biggest) meal of the day and the entire city shuts down because everyone returns home for a break from their busy days. Here, usual business hours are 9/10am-2pm and 4pm-9pm. The two hour break makes the morning move really slowly (especially 12-2) but the night creeps up on you very quickly. Dinner usually consists of drinks and the free (only in Granada!) tapas (small plates) that come with them. On nights that don't including dancing, we usually are back in the house around 12am since dinner isn't usually until at least 9:30pm (a concept Dylan cannot comprehend). Slowly, I am getting used to the differing schedule, but I can assure you that I am more than hungry when comida comes around.
Overall, the culture shock has been minimal, but there has been an adjustment period that is still going on. However, I think with an open mind and lack of judgment, my movement into a new culture has been relatively smooth. Tomorrow we are going to Sevilla y La Ronda for 2 days 1 night and Monday starts classes! Hasta luego!
PAELLA =)
lentil soup with blood sausage
seafood stew
pasta bolognese
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this is me acknowleding my reading of this excellent piece of prose.
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