This was kinda of my thought process before I went to Morocco at the end of last week for a 4 day adventure into an unknown world. I had no expectations, some hesitations, and an overwhelming craving to learn and be proven wrong. There were a lot of things that I was preparing myself for: a Jew in an Arab country, a girl in an Arab country, staying in a home for two nights. Regardless, I was going--with a backpack, a camera, and an open mind.
I guess its important to first mention that we went to Gibraltar on Thursday, a British territory on the Spanish peninsula. It was a very strange place where they had British accents, yet I was able to walk across the border to Spain (after walking through the airport of course). The only cool thing: a monkey on my head!
Friday morning we woke up bright and early (6:30am) to catch the ferry from Algecerias, Spain to Tangers, Morocco to begin our adventure, and boy did we hit the ground running. We started at Darna's Women Center, a government-run center that helps divorced, widowed, or other women who are in difficult economic situations learn skills--weaving, sewing, French, computer literacy--to be able to support their families. This is extraordinary in a country where women have only recently begun to have the freedoms that American women have celebrated since the last century. It was so impressive to see these women at work, creating objects that will directly help them and their families. We sat down with two Moroccans, one man and one woman (who was wearing the veil), and had our first delicious cous cous meal with Moroccan tea. The two of them got into a few heated arguments regarding various topics such as arranged marriages (he was for, she against) and religion in Morocco. Zakariah (the man), was definitely reactionary and liked to say things that sparked a heated conversation--Iraq War, Israel v. Palestine, and even World War II and Hitler. It was an extreme way to be introduced to this new culture, but it allowed for the rest of the people that I met to settle happily in the middle.We then went to Assilah, a coastal town (the other side of the Atlantic!) with a lot of buildings painted green and/or blue. Green is the color of Islam and blue dates back to the strong Jewish population that was present in Morocco until 1948 with the creation of Israel. It was a gorgeous town with beautiful murals that are painted/repainted every year during a summer arts festival. Here is one:
Now, let's talk Rabat homestay. It was extremely difficult because we (Katie and I) were unable to speak either language that most Moroccans speak (Arabic and French) and thus resulted in a lot of silence and big gestures. The granddaughter spoke very good English and was extremely helpful when she was there, but that was not all the time so there were some definite awkward moments. However, none of that mattered with the food we were served. Everything was so delicious, that we happily sat in silence eating everything that was placed in front of us (obviously will be posted at the bottom).
Saturday, we did some basic Rabat tourist sites such as the Mausoleum of King Mohamed V and Chellah (Roman ruins) and then we walked around with Moroccan students in the afternoon. This was really interesting because we were able to talk to them not only as Moroccans, but as peers. We talked about how they see themselves as modern and yet recognize that Morocco is far from liberal. Few of them prayed, some of them smoked, all of them were in college (education is free all the way through PhD), and one even admitted to having a girlfriend (but he refused to say her name because he didn't want his friends to tell people). Being with them provided us another peephole into the complex country and culture of Morocco. There is a ongoing battle, especially in cities such as Rabat, between modernity and tradition, religious and secular. The younger generations of Morocco are definitely creating and/or moving the line of comfort for many older Moroccans, especially now with a King who is open about mistakes made by previous kings (aka his male relatives), and it will be interesting to see how Morocco changes in the coming decades.
Then, Saturday night was the night--the Hamam night. The Arab bath was an opportunity that none of us could pass up and were willing to throw ourselves into as a cultural learning experience. Picture a sauna, with water faucets, and 20 American girls in their bathing suits (many with their top off like a true Moroccan) taking a shower/bath for the first time since Thursday. Needless to say, there was slight chaos and a few near girl fights, but I had the most incredible time. I got scrubbed by a Moroccan woman and literally had to rinse off the dead skin that she had scraped off my body. Then, I had a 15minutes massage where another woman lathered me up with body wash, gave me a chiropractic adjustment to last these final 6 weeks, and massaged every muscle in my body. Needless to say, Dr. Eric has been replaced. I truly felt like it was right here that I let all my inhibitions go and dive into this new culture that was capturing my attention. After the Hamam we did a very tourist-y (and Arab) henna session. Mine of course got smushed and is not as pretty or as dark as all the others, but there is a possibility that I may get another one done while I am still in Granada.
Then, Sunday we did a lot of bus travel and ended up in a village in the Rif Mountains. Here we had lunch with and met Mohamed and Aziza, farmers who live in this village, yet have the minds and ideas well-educated American. With the help of a translator, Aziza's brother Jahoud, Mohamed asked us questions about what we thought the reasons for the global economic crisis were, our views on long term relationships that do not end up in marriage, and what we wanted to do when we grew up. Many people had envisioned this to be Morocco: rural, lots of stray dogs, green farms; but even this surprised us. These people had so much knowledge and so much interest in speaking with us and learning more, it was inspiring to me to truly take advantage of the opportunities I have to learn and explore with ease.
We had our last night in Chefchaoven where I put my Jewish/New York haggling skills to the test and was able to get some very impressive deals for gifts both for myself and for friends and family at home. We had a wonderful meal just the group of 14 and then went back to the hostel and did what I love most: reflect. People spoke about culture shock, shattered stereotypes, cravings to make changes. It was here that I was truly able to appreciate my friends here in Granada. No one else knows what it has been like to study abroad in Granada during the Spring of 2010, and no one else ever will. They are my family here and they will be my support when I am homesick for my new home. I am so grateful for them and the relationships we have formed and am so sad to have to say goodbye in 6 weeks.
Monday we entered Spain in Ceuta, Spain's land border with Morocco and then hopped on a ferry that was late due to the fact that many ferries were in use in other parts of Europe due to the lack of airplanes in all of Europe. Hungry and tired, we arrived back in Granada around 9pm and boy, was I happy to be back. It is an amazing experience to travel around Europe (and Africa) and I am truly grateful, however, as I have said time and time to again, Granada is home, and there is no place like it.
Overall, Morocco was eye-opening. I don't know exactly what will come of it, but I know only good things. If nothing else, it will liven up the dinner conversations between Simons and Kaufmans. One thing I do know is that my perceptions of the "Arab world" were false. We cannot classify every Arab country into a world, it is impossible. I would argue that you can barely classify all Moroccans in one group. Morocco is a country that is diverse in thought and actions and brimming with people who are ready to learn and explore new ideas. As Americans, most countries are seen as traditional and extremely conservative in many ways. However, this trip has proven the idea that you cannot judge every country based on one country's wealth and/or power. Morocco is wealthy and powerful and an ally to the United States--all in their own way. It is this idea that each country should be looked as a separate entity that many people fail to grasp. Here is hoping that people do, because a country with the beauty that I saw in the past four days deserves to be seen as an individual in the masses.
This week is a really short week and I believe I will be spending one of the days this weekend at the beach. As of Thursday, I officially only have 6 weeks left in Granada. Not ready to make peace with that quite yet, guess that's a good sign.Hasta luego!
FOOD: MOROCCO EDITION
tea--mint with a lot a lot of sugar aka DELICIOUS
cous cous (chicken and vegetarian)
chicken with potato in this yellow sauce
chicken with sliced potatoes that had been baked (keep in mind these all have names that I just don't know)
lentil soup (different than Spanish, just as good)
cold, cooked, spiced carrots
beets (I tried them again Dad--still no luck)
kidney bean-like beans with some sauce
bread-reminded of matzah but a lot better (hard to explain)
filo-doughy breakfast thing
crepe pancake?
goat-mozzarella cheese mix
filo dough filled with chicken with powdered sugar and cinnamon on top (it was a meal)
more tea, more bread
No comments:
Post a Comment